David and I took a trip down to Milford Sound, our heads filled with the promise of natural beauty and stunning landscape… we found ourselves far from disappointed.
Milford Sound is actually not a sound at all but a Fijord. As part of the Fiordlands here in NZ the area was carved by glacial movement ages and ages ago. The mountains rise straight up from flat valleys in the most dramatic fashion. Sheer cliffs walls abut the grazing fields, towering up over the road mounting into craggy peaks.
Milford Sound is comprised of a select few lodges, small airfield, busy tourist ferry port and an oceanic research center. The main industry is rock lobster fishing (also known as crayfish) and tourism. The latest in Milford Sound news was the recent filming of the news Alien movie, that climax with the enormous demolition and inevitable explosion of the space craft.
Safe from any “alien” encounters we woke early from out campsite about an hour away. The night prior we hiked along a glacial water fall out to Lake… and car camped in the mountain basin. Before climbing into bed for a serious game of chess we sipped on hot chocolate and star gazed. The milky way is so clearly defined, an enormous swath of stars brushed across the night sky.
Once in Milford Sound we boarded our morning ferry ride. We cruised along the water, admiring the mountains, forested cliffs. Clouds settled low below the summits, swirling and morphing with the slight breeze. Among the trees and vegetation there were large carved channels defined by the waterfalls that spill from the mountains down to the ocean water when it rains.
The sound water is layered, the fresh water is less dense and sits above the salt water. The fresh water blocks out much of the sunlight, creating a phenomena. In these relatively shallow waters live sea creatures that typically live very, very far down in the ocean. Scientist flock here from all over the world to study these species that are normally far less accessible.
On our return trip down the sound the boat slowed down next to some of rocky outcroppings in the water. The guide encouraged us to look for seals in the dark water. After about five minutes he conceded and urged us to keep a look out and that maybe we would have better luck later.
We never found seals but… we did find an entire pod of bottle nose dolphins!
This encounter will remain in my memory as one of the great moments of unity between humans and wild nature.
The guide exclaimed, “Well someone must be wearing their lucky underwear because we have spotted a whole bunch dolphins!” The ferry motored to the middle of sound to join up with a pod of dolphins. We ran down to the lower deck to get the best vantage point, joined by crew members and other passengers we quickly were captivated by the marine animals.
Language boundaries, race, nationalities, prejudice and judgement was forgotten as well all laughed, cried and swooned over the dolphins.
They surrounded the boat, swimming in the current and cresting out of the water. Our fascination with these creatures was only matched by their curiosity of us. As it was time to head back to port the ferry began to accelerate away from the pod. One dolphin stay with us, racing along side the boat right below me. It looked up through the water examining the humans above. Swimming with such magnificent power and grace, eventually the dolphin broke away sinking back into the water and leaping up into the air in a celebratory salutation.
Our experience in Milford Sound was absolutely magical. Such powerful landscape carved thousands and thousands of year ago, may it serve as an inspiration to all who visit.
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